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My Real Montevideo
(most livable major city in Latin America)

by  B o b   R e d m a n
Maestro de Inglés y Alemán

Street address: Calle Maipú 2005 - A1, Montevideo-Parque Batlle, Uruguay 11600
E-mail address: redmanrt at yahoo dot com, home tel. 487-1557, cell. 09601-7862, Skype ID redmanrt

Not a spectacular city, but pleasant with everything you could ask for.

Uruguay is a small country sandwiched between Argentina and Brazil, and is South America's banking haven. The main industries are agriculture and tourism. It was founded by Spaniards, but many immigrants (principally Italians) have put their stamp on the city. In my local supermarket I find real German bread, natural "Manita" peanut butter (no hydrogenized fat), goat cheese, pesto sauce, hot chili peppers, and every day fresh celery. I buy real salsa and low-salt totopos in a Mexican restaurant, a resident north American taught me how to curdle (sour) heavy cream, and voilá – TexMex cuisine with a bottle of Corona Extra in my own home! Then there is Radio Classica AM 650 with 24 hours a day of classical music, and there is even a small baroque music scene with recorders. The city is relatively peaceful, separation of church and state is anchored in the constitution, and the police presence is professional and normal, usually without machine guns. The climate is mild year-round (see data at weather.com), you hardly notice the warmer days thanks to the trees and parks everywhere, and there is no smog, nor any pronounced rainy or dry season. Uruguay has one of the highest quality ground water tables in the world, and you can safely drink the tap water or even make good tea with it. ATMs here dispense either dollars or Uruguayan pesos, merchants accept dollars as a matter of course, and customer service is good in the stores. The prices for property, rent and food, given comparable location, are about half to two thirds of those in the US. Appliances and most electronics cost about the same. To buy and operate a car is more expensive than in the US. The rules for acquiring a residence/work permit here are clear and easy to comply with. The permit gives you access to the public health care system, or you can buy into a private system for as little as $60 per month. According to a UN index, Uruguay has the lowest level of corruption in South America. According to the Quality of Life index of 2009 of the magazine International Living Uruguay shares in over-all ranking 11th place with Sweden, Holland, and Canada, is ahead of England and Spain, and is FIRST in Latin America. If you have the national ID card ("cedula") and a certificate of good conduct from the local police, and complete a short training course, you're allowed to purchase firearms including handguns and keep them in your house or in your car. In short, Uruguay is a hospitable place to visit or in which to live.

For cyclists: The roads here are excellent with paved or good berms, the rolling hills can be a challenge against headwinds, and the drivers aren't nearly as agressive as those in the neighboring countries. In addition, there is an endless network of well-maintained dirt roads.

Read Wikipedia's article on Uruguay.
Click here for translations into Spanish and German.



Click on photos to enlarge.

Montevideo Montevideo Montevideo Montevideo obelisque Montevideo main street
1
Hotel Los Angeles, my starting point.
Main steet, center, close to old city.

Efraín, manager and scholar, and
Mónica, nice receptionist

Wanted to be included.
Obelisque to founders of Uruguay Main street in centro -
Blvd. 18th of Julio.


Montevideo estuary Montevideo beach
Montevideo luxury
Montevideo Peace Square Montevideo 3 Cruces
2
Platte River and estuary,
Argentina on the other side.

Eighty miles of  protected beaches
 and many  more of ocean beaches.
La Rambla luxury (Punta Gorda). Lovely little park  -
Plaza de Cagancha.
I like blue.

Montevideo Chinese restaurant Montevideo artisans market Montevideo artisans' market Montevideo police
3
Gran China, Shanghai cuisine, MV
centro - tel. 908 2097

Mercado de los Artesanos,
MV centro.
Inside Artisans' Market.
Normal and professional police presence.  Geraldo right) is trained
in voice, has an alto recorder. Filled me in on some details of life here.

Montevideo outdoor market Montevideo sidewalk cafe Montevideo book store Montevideo locks fontain Montevideo city hall
3
Sundays and holidays good
place to buy hand made stuff.

Maybe even better than Paris. Bought my city map here. Specialist
in Spanish language literature.
Locks fountain. City Hall.

Montevideo MacDonalds
Montevideo pedestrian zone Montevideo "classificadores"
4
Fear not, MacDonalds fans.
Lots of little pedestrian zones.
Methodist church
Dumpster scavengers. Live in
shanty towns, some are wealthy.
Used book store Pocho - Mgr.
Diego, Av. 18th of Julio


Montevideo army monument Montevideo parliament Montevideo library
5
Monument to the Uruguayan
Army.

Parliament National Library Synagogue in Pocitos
Morman church in Malvin Norte.
Could be straight out of a US suburb.

Montevideo university Montevideo sandals specialist Montevideo cheap clothes
6
Federal University law school.
Used CDs, classical music, Arsenio
Acosta, Tristan Narvaja 1614.

Sandals specialist
Lots of clothes sold cheap in
booths like this one
Cafe Paris, Arenal Grande,
self-dervice with scale, lunch.

Montevideo main train station
Montevideo subarban train station
7
Magnificent Central Train Station,
now closed.

Behind it is the terminal for the
AFE suburban and freight line.

Restructuring project.
Click here to see passenger schedule.
Sáurez suburban train station.
Will gain in importance.
ZonAmerica Business & Technology
Park - close to Sáurez train station.


Montevideo shade Montevideo ice cream Montevideo smile Montevideo independence square
8
Warm day, welcome shade.
Warm day, welcome ice cream parlor.
Warm smile.
Presidential Palace and, on the left,
presidential museum.
Independence Plaza

Montevideo fancy market Montevideo planetarium Montevideo printer Montevideo printer Montevideo printer
9
Inside a Disco Fresh Market –
fancier than
Publix in USA.
Planetarium.
Print shop did my visiting cards
in 2 days.

Daniel shows me his press built
in Germany in 1800, still functions.
His son, Marcelo, works with
Corel Draw.



10
Youth Orchestra

Lourdes Díaz's boxing gym.
Closest thing to a Home Depot in
Uruguay, Av. Garibaldi, tel. 203-6067.
Tango palace.

Montevideo old city Montevideo old city book store Montevideo old city bookstore Montevideo opera house
11
Remnant of gate to old city.
Pablo Ferrando - City's oldest book
store.
Natalia works in the book store's
restaurant.

Solis Theater in old city. Italian style opera house. One of the most
advanced of its type in S. America. Three of the well-informed tour guides.

Montevideo concert hall Montevideo maté habit Montevideo old city promenande Montevideo old city park Montevideo old city bank
12
Sodre Theater in MV centro.
Modern concert hall, seats 2000.
Preparing maté, very strong tea,
addictive I  think.

Promenade in old city
Park in old city Bank of Uruguay.  Together with the
other banks, a bulwark.

Montevideo cathedral Montevideo's cathedral's priest Ernesto
13
Cathedral of MV, perfect venue for
Monteverdi, Palestrina, and Gabrieli.
Assistant Mauricio and Padre Ernesto.
Padre Juan, new head priest of  MV
cathedral.
Ramón (left), master of ceremonies,
  with Mapel, Pablo, and Eva.
Has galleries (potential double choir
lofts), just like San Marco.






14






Montevideo imiigratin lawyer Montevideo immigration lawyer's secretary Montevideo old city bike rental Montevideo old city wne tasting Montevideo beauty
15
Federico, my immigration lawyer –
Fischer & Schickedantz.
Cecilia, lovely receptionist for
Federico's law firm
Fernando and Verónica Pini's
 bike rental shop – cell. 9918-4377.
Tim and Solange's wine tasting store: www.portofcallmontevideo.com Solange's daughter Sofía.


Montevideo old city Montevideo central market Montevideo old city artisan
16
Wonderful building in old city.
City council meets here.

Old city restauration project.
Entrance to the Mercado Central del
Puerto. Navy HQ in background.
Analía, pretty tourist from Argentina.
Gabriel  of  "Multiespacio
Cultural" in old city, tel. 905-9882.

Montevideo Anglican Church Montevideo Anglican Church Montevideo Anglican Church Montevideo Antel HQ
17
Anglican Church of Montevideo.
I played here on Christmas day.
Exquisite sanctuary.

Pastor Brigitte Gutbrod and
Bishop Miguel Tamayo.

"The Boat," HQ of Antel, Uruguay's
state telecommnications company.
Outdoor theater part of Antel complex.

Montevideo vegarian restaurant Montevideo vegetarian restaurant Montevideo outdoor market Montevideo outdoor market Montevideo T-shirt shop
18
Vegetarian restaurant close to home.

Excellent food, good prices,
nice people.
Drinking maté while strolling. I've
seen people on bikes drinking  it.
Selling utensils for making maté. I buy my T-shirts here, a shop near
Tres Cruces.


Montevideo park Montevideo park Montevideo velodrome Montevideo velodrome Montevideo bike racing
19
Big park (Parque Batlle)
near my house.

Fitness circuit. Nice European touch.
Also has a bike racing track. Pursuit race Sunday morning criterium.

Montevideo English Corner Montevideo Motociclo Montevideo Bici Car
20
Carmen, director, and her husband
Ricardo, English Corner school.

Ricardo's freewheel 5x to 4000 meters.
Hector best mechanic of MV.
Zenith shop in Pocitos caters to
racers, Av. José Martí.
Bicycle supermarket where I
bought my city bike.
Carlos then fixed it up for me –
Bici á la Carte, tel. 622-8623

Montevideo Parque Batlle neighborhood Montevideo home
21
Street in my neighborhood Gustavo of the neighborhood
cultural center.
Neighborhood restaurent La Casona,
Spanish cuisine, only lunch.
Fernando and Alvaro, Christofer
setting up my internet connection.


Montevideo Luthern Church
Montevideo Italian restaurant
22
German Evangelical Church of MV,
Blanes and Durazno, tel. 418-3066
.
Different musicians play here
nearly every Sunday.
Elegant Italian restaurant in
Puntas Carretas.
Montevideans really like their pets. There's even a pet cemetery.

Montevideo computer store Montevideo computer technician Montevideo cyber cafe
Montevideo house
23
Bought monitor and printer
here. Prices almost same as in US.
Christian from store setting up
the Multi-Screen program.

Local cyber café.
Nice house in my neighborhood Bought my architect's desk lamp
and other electrical stuff here.

Montevideo World Trade Center Montevideo music store Montevideo music store
Montevideo geraniums
24
More blue. They call this their
World Trade Center.

Dari Hardware in Pocitos Shopping.
If they don't have it, they'll get it.
Gabriel of Todo Musica in
Pocitos Shopping. Plays trumpet.
Danielo, general manager of Todo
Musica, tel. 900-0182. Plays keyboard.
Hanging geraniums in Pocitos.

Montevideo Goethe Institut Montevideo Alpine Social Club
25
Goethe Institut, German cultural
center and library.

German social club, meets
Tuesday evenings.

German School, kindergarden to
college prepartory.
Lycee Française Germán Gómez Evia of Citibank in
Positos made it easy for me.

Montevideo Punta Carretas shopping Montevideo semi-vegetarian restaurant
Montevideo Punta Carretas house
Montevideo Mexican restaurant owner
26
Punta Carretas Shopping, one of
3 ½ indoor malls in Montevideo.
Verde&Wok semi-vegetarian rest.
in Punta Carretas Shopping.

Nice house in Punta Carretas. La Lupita, restaurante mexicano,
dueña Sa. Pampín.

Only place in town to get real
totopos.

Montevideo Cerro Montevideo fortaleza Montevideo port Montevideo Sagrado Corazon church Montevideo Sagrado Corazon church
27
Entering Cerro, one of the poorer
parts of the city I was told.

Fortaleza above Cerro View of Montevideo's port. Little elevated speck on left of port
panorama magnified 15 X.
Turned out to be the Sagrado
Corazón church.

Montevideo El Granero

Montevideo 1929 Ford
28
"El  Granero" where I buy my
granola. Bvd. Batlle y Ordoñez .
1927 Nash, still hard at work. A
matter of philosophy, not money.
1937 classic something or other.
Rolled out for special occasions.
1929 Ford still in use. Uruguayans
don't like to throw things away.

Beautiful house in Carrasco.

29
French style house in Carrasco.
German style house in Carrasco. If
only it had hanging geraniums....
Colonial style church in Carrasco.
Spanish style house in Carrasco.
Geant, closest thing to a Walmart
  here.  Unless it's Tienda Inglésa.


Montevideo basketball stadium
Montevideo horse racing track
Montevideo cycling club
Montevideo outdoor miracle mile
Montevideo fruit stand
30
The municipal "Cylinder"
(basketball court).
Hipódromo.
Club Ciclista Maroñas, promoter
of Tour of Uruguay bike race.
Saturday "miracle mile" in Maroñas.

On the road to Sauce.

Montevideo highway Montevideo highway bridge Brazilian highway bridge
31
Excellent roads with either berm
or bike path. Rolling countryside.
Highway engineers here leave
cylcists some margin at bridges.
In Brazil no such margin. Terrifying
with a truck behind you.
On the other hand, Uruguay has no
long climbs like this (Piranga, MG).
Endless system of well-maintained
dirt roads. They even water them.

Montevideo Sauce Montevideo Sauce Montevideo Sauce Montevideo Sauce
32
Sauce's main church. Sauce's central park. Some stores in Sauce. Restored birthplace of Artigas, hero
 of Uruguay's independence.
Dear Patricia.

Montevideo country houses Montevideo Sauce house Montevideo country house Montevideo country bar Montevideo Uruguayan wine
33
Normal houses on road to Sauce.
Clean, neat.
Nice house in Sauce. German style house with
thatched roof.
Bar in wine country.
Uruguayan wines just as good as
Chilean or Argentinian wines.

Montevideo leaving city Montevideo La Paz Montevideo La Pza Jewish cemetary Montevideo cyclist
34
Heading northwest out of city. Big Jehova's Witnesses complex.
Passing through La Paz.
Jewish cemetary, proof of
Uruguay's tradition of tolerance.

Lots of these tough old cyclists here.

Montevideo Las Piedras Montevideo Las Piedras Montevideo bar Catalan Montevideo Catalan grill
35
Main church in Las Piedras.
Central Park in Las Piedras.
Oscar's  Catalán bar and grill, tel. 222-2665. Near rotunda in extension
of Av. Belloni. Notice the marvelous wooden refrigerator, 60 years old
!
Juan Pablo's hardware store in
Colonos.

Montevideo shooting club Montevideo shooting club Montevideo restaurant
Montevideo restaurant
36
Uruguayan Shooting Club. Maybe
even better here than Costa Rica.
Eugenio Pepe, former champion of
South America.
Fernando Nicolás, Mercedes 857.
Will help foreigners get permits.

El Ombú restaurant, good prices,
good service, 481-4130, Las Heras.

La Charrette grill of Parque Batlle.
Alexandro trained in Switzerland.


37
Main church in Pando.
Pando, obligatory statue of Artigas.
Pando downtown. Almost a
pedestrian zone.

Owners of Super Fruta in Pando.
His mother came from Calabria.

The "wing," Montevideo's
international airport in Carrasco.


Next: San Jacinto, Santa Rosa,
Canelones, and Santa Lucia.





Brazilian restaurant
38
Salíya in Ritápolis, MG, Brazil. Still
the best restaurant I've ever found.
Karina's Mama Mia natural eatery
with juice blends in Pocitos.
Korean restaraurant just off
Independence Square.
Owner (upper right) and friends.
"Mediterraneo" with Italian and
Arab cuisine, Maldonado 1766.


Prado neighborhood - where the old money is.

39
Centro Cultural Bartolomé Hidalgo, named after a prominent Uruguayen
poet and revolutionary (1788-1822).

Someone dropped a French
chateau in Montevideo.

Someone borrowed the Hotel Prado
from the Bois de Boulogne.

Wait! The Notre Dame de Paris too?

40
Et le Jardin Botanique aussi?
Biggest mansions I've seen so far in MV.